Then spin the drive shaft to see the indicator shows movement in or out. but if you haven't done this before you can attach the dial indicator magnet to a metal base, such as to the trailer, and then adjust the arms so that the indicator point rests on the drive shaft. but I was comfortable calling mine straight enough. Best to take the shaft to a machine shop or propeller service center to have it checeked. I've read that movement needs to be less than three thousands of an inch. I checked it at the top, then by the strut in a few places. It spun freely, no jambs, and I used a magnet based dial indicator to measure the drive shaft in multiple areas. Here's the Glide GMSS system I installed in this project - replacing the aging shaft stuffing box.ġ) CHECK SHAFT Before pulling the driveshaft, I did a hasty check to make sure it was straight after our collision. This is briefly covered in another project here : Rudder Rebuild. ) (In order to pull the driveshaft I had to pull the rudder - and you might too, depending on your boat. I also learned from other Wake Garage members their Glide installations, which was helpful. They have a solid reputation and I like supporting good companies. The company's owner was very helpful in answering questions and is passionate about boats. I also learned more about Glide for our giveaway/drawing on Wake Garage (nope, I didn't win, I had to buy one). My boat is 11 years old, and I certainly didn't want any unexpected issues later.įor this I chose Glide's Dripless Shaft Seal System (GMSS Kit) because its virtually maintenance free, its dripless, has a great reputation and it even ships in the new Malibus. Since I had to pull the driveline anyway I decided to replace the shaft seal system as well. But it was fast enough to bend both the prop and the strut. We hit a submerged piece of wood (or something) at the lake right about 20 mph.
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